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Laser Light designs

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Your Glowforge Helper, with Glowforge Answers!

Glowforge Tips

Stuff we learned the hard way -

  • If the lid doesn't close all the way, ensure the machine is level
  • Make 20 of the hold down push pins. Use more push pins than you need. Always. They will break from time to time - just print more on small scraps that are otherwise unusable
  • When you put new material in the machine and close the lid, ensure there is not very bright lights right above the machine. it will alter the ability for the camera to focus well
  • Use "Set Focus" before modifying any cut or engrave settings, and change the focal height to "auto". If you have not Set Focus first, the "Auto" will revert to an arbitrary number.
  • Alignment is a relative term. Read the "Understanding Alignment" How To
  • When engraving, you want the image to be as wide as possible, and it may benefit from you turning the project. The machine engraves right to left, and moves forward and back. If the machine can travel further side to side during the engrave process, it spends more time engraving, and less time slowing down or changing directions. 


After closing the lid and going into your GF Dashboard (In this order):

  • Ensure proper material is selected. (thickness and ply vs hard) It may or may not register the QR code if you use Proofgrade material, and also, you may have put the QR to the back side if you are engraving over that area as the thick sticker does effect engrave quality
  • Go to the 3 dots (top, right) and "Set focus" to the Middle of the area that you will be running the job (if using a portion of a full size panel.) If you are using a full sheet, use the center area of the sheet. If you are using a smaller piece, put the piece under the camera.
  • Now where you place your design will be accurate. Place your designs where none of it is grey, which means it is outside of machines usable area) and where they do not touch over overlap each other. Engraving can use less area, the machine needs a buffer to slow down.
  • If something no longer "fits" that used to fit - it may be because your speeds are higher now. Higher speeds results in more room needed as a "buffer" for the mechanics to slow down, so it makes the workable area smaller, especially on engraves.
  • Always test new material. If you run a design, check the pieces before you remove any of your hold down pins. If you use a vacuum to suck it out or a piece of tape, and the piece does not come out easily - it is fine to run a second pass as long as you don't move anything. 
  • Your test cut should be a small star or something with some detail. A circle will skew results.

FAQ

Can I cut vinyl, plastic, or PVC on the Laser?

It is not advised - anything with chlorine in it will cause immediate physical damage to your machine. The fumes can also be dangerous to the user.

Why does it take two passes some times ?

Especially on 1/4" that is not Glowforge Proofgrade brand. A few reasons:

  • One, this is a hobby laser and it's power is limited to 1/4" and below. You are doing the maximum it is made for. 
  • Second, the wood you are using is not optimized for this machine itself - even if designed for use on lasers. 
  • Third, the lens on your machine has a sweet spot - and that sweet spot is where it is focused. (your material surface) This also implies that the efficiency of laser decreases as depth increases - it is just the way ANY laser works (it is actually tapered like a "V". 
  • If two passes are not an option, consider boxing this machine up and purchasing a machine north of 8-10k, and with 60w-120 watts of power.
     

Can I use "Underlayment" 1/4" plywood material?

It is not recommended - and know that we tried! You will get very inconsistent results as the glue and internal layers of the plywood are not meant to be used for this purpose. It will cause you more headaches than it is worth - and result in wasted time and money. Use a reputable wood intended for laser use - ideally with a MDF core.

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